Jeb Dunnuck’s top-scoring Southern Rhône releases

• Jeb Dunnuck recently reviewed two vintages from Southern Rhône – the 2021 in bottle and 2022 in barrel.
• He described 2022 as a ‘clear step up over 2021’.
• Château de Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2022 received 100 points from the critic, and prices for the label have risen 60% in the last five years.

Last week, Jeb Dunnuck released his latest Southern Rhône report, reviewing the 2021 vintage from bottle and the 2022 mostly from barrel.

The critic observed that ‘the time of truly bad vintages is mostly over’ given ‘the advances in viticulture and winemaking’. This is especially true for ‘a region like the southern Rhône, which has so much flexibility with grape varieties and different terroirs’.

2021 – drinking rather than collecting

The 2021 Southern Rhône vintage was marked by devastating springtime frosts, which dramatically reduced yields. A cool, rainy year led to ‘forward and charming [wines], with mid-weight, linear, fresher profiles,’ according to Dunnuck.

Dunnuck said that ‘2021 is not a great vintage’ when tasted next to a top 2019, 2016 or 2010. While he commended the accessibility and finesse of the wines, which would be ‘loved by sommeliers’, the critic noted that ‘it’s not a vintage to seek out or buy in massive quantities for the cellar’.

2022 – checks in ‘behind the greats’

Dunnuck described the 2022s as ‘a clear step up over 2021s’. He noted that the vintage bears some similarities ‘to 2020 and 2011, if not a more linear, mid-weight version of 2009’. For him, ‘2022 looks to check in behind the greats of 2019, 2016, 2010, and 2007’.

However, the critic concluded that ‘the divergent styles throughout the region make 2022 a difficult vintage to describe in broad statements, so it’s a vintage that readers will need to approach on an estate-by-estate basis’.

Dunnuck’s top-scoring wines across both years can be seen in the table below.

Across both years, Jeb Dunnuck found perfection in one wine – Château de Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2022. Awarding it 100 points, he called it ‘pure Beaucastel magic’. Average prices for the label have risen 101% over the last decade, and 60% in the last five years.

The Rhône’s investment performance in 2023

Prices for the top Rhône labels have been falling this year. Across the Liv-ex 1000 regional sub-indices, the Rhône 100 has experienced the biggest decline, down 18.1%.

However, young vintages like 2019 and 2020 have been in demand. Moreover, some wines from Southern Rhône such as Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc have been on an upward trend, rising 32.8% on average.

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